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When I was a little kid, my parents got me a Monday Night Football video game for the PC. It was no Tecmo Bowl, but it was great. What I liked even more about it was.

Card game - Wikipedia"Card player" redirects here. For the publication, see Card Player. A card game is any game using playing cards as the primary device with which the game is played, be they traditional or game- specific. Countless card games exist, including families of related games (such as poker). A small number of card games played with traditional decks have formally standardized rules, but most are folk games whose rules vary by region, culture, and person. Many games that are not generally placed in the family of card games do in fact use cards for some aspect of their gameplay. Similarly, some games that are placed in the card game genre involve a board.

The distinction is that the gameplay of a card game primarily depends on the use of the cards by players (the board is simply a guide for scorekeeping or for card placement), while board games (the principal non- card game genre to use cards) generally focus on the players' positions on the board, and use the cards for some secondary purpose. Given the association of card games and gambling, the pope, Benedict XIV, banned card games on October 1. Playing cards[edit]A card game is played with a deck or pack of playing cards which are identical in size and shape. Each card has two sides, the face and the back. Normally the backs of the cards are indistinguishable. The faces of the cards may all be unique, or there can be duplicates. The composition of a deck is known to each player.

In some cases several decks are shuffled together to form a single pack or shoe. The first playing cards appeared in the ninth century during Tang dynasty. China.[2] The first reference to the card game in world history dates no later than the 9th century, when the Collection of Miscellanea at Duyang, written by Tang Dynasty writer Su E, described Princess Tongchang (daughter of Emperor Yizong of Tang) playing the "leaf game" in 8. Wei clan (the family of the princess' husband).[3][4] The Song dynasty statesman and historian Ouyang Xiu has noted that paper playing cards arose in connection to an earlier development in the book format from scrolls to pages.[2] During the Ming dynasty (1.

Water Margin were widely featured on the faces of playing cards.[2] A precise description of Chinese money playing cards (in four suits) survived from the 1. Mahjong tiles are a 1.

Rummikub tiles were derived recently from modern Western playing cards.[5]Mamluk playing card (king of cups), c. The same kind of games can also be played with tiles made of wood, plastic, bone, or similar materials.

The most notable examples of such tile sets are dominoes, mahjong tiles and Rummikub tiles. Chinese dominoes are also available as playing cards. It is not clear whether Emperor Muzong of Liao really played with domino cards as early as 9. Legend dates the invention of dominoes in the year 1. Playing cards first appeared in Europe in the last quarter of the 1.

The earliest European references speak of a Saracen or Moorish game called naib, and in fact an almost complete Mamluk Egyptian deck of 5. The 1. 43. 0s in Italy saw the invention of the tarot deck, a full Latin- suited deck augmented by suitless cards with painted motifs that played a special role as trumps. Tarot card games are still played with (subsets of) these decks in parts of Central Europe. A full tarot deck contains 1. Valet (Jack), Chevalier (Cavalier/Knight), Dame (Queen), and Roi (King), plus the Fool or Excuse card, and 2. In the 1. 8th century the card images of the traditional Italian tarot decks became popular in cartomancy and evolved into "esoteric" decks used primarily for the purpose; today most tarot decks sold in North America are the occult type, and are closely associated with fortune telling.

In Europe, "playing tarot" decks remain popular for games, and have evolved since the 1. Spades/Hearts/Diamonds/Clubs in France, Leaves/Hearts/Bells/Acorns in Germany) as well as other familiar aspects of the Anglo- American deck such as corner card indices and "stamped" card symbols for non- court cards. Decks differ regionally based on the number of cards needed to play the games; the French tarot consists of the "full" 7. Germanic, Spanish and Italian Tarot variants remove certain values (usually low suited cards) from the deck, creating a deck with as few as 3. The French suits were introduced around 1. France, mostly replaced the earlier Latin suits of swords, clubs, cups and coins.[5]: 4.

Spanish- and Portuguese- speaking countries as well as in some northern regions of Italy)[5]: 3. The suit symbols, being very simple and single- color, could be stamped onto the playing cards to create a deck, thus only requiring special full- color card art for the court cards. This drastically simplifies the production of a deck of cards versus the traditional Italian deck, which used unique full- color art for each card in the deck. The French suits became popular in English playing cards in the 1.

France and England), and from there were introduced to British colonies including North America. The rise of Western culture has led to the near- universal popularity and availability of French- suited playing cards even in areas with their own regional card art. In Japan, a distinct 4. It is derived from 1. Portuguese decks, after undergoing a long evolution driven by laws enacted by the Tokugawa Shogunate attempting to ban the use of playing cards. The best- known deck internationally is the 5. Anglo- American deck used for such games as poker and contract bridge.

It contains one card for each unique combination of thirteen ranks and the four French suitsspades, hearts, diamonds, and clubs. The ranks (from highest to lowest in bridge and poker) are ace, king, queen, jack (or knave), and the numbers from ten down to two (or deuce). The trump cards and knight cards from the French playing tarot are not included. Originally the term "knave" was more common than "jack"; the card had been called a jack as part of the terminology of All- Fours since the 1. Note the exclamation by Estella in Charles Dickens's novel Great Expectations: "He calls the knaves, Jacks, this boy!") However, because the card abbreviation for knave ("Kn") was so close to that of the king, it was very easy to confuse them, especially after suits and rankings were moved to the corners of the card in order to enable people to fan them in one hand and still see all the values.

The earliest known deck to place suits and rankings in the corner of the card is from 1. Hart reintroduced them along with the knave- to- jack change.) However, books of card games published in the third quarter of the 1. United Kingdom. Since the 1. Old Maid, Phase 1. Rook, and Uno are examples of games that can be played with one or more 5.

Cards play an important role in board games like Risk and Monopoly. Typical structure of card games[edit]Number and association of players[edit]Any specific card game imposes restrictions on the number of players. The most significant dividing lines run between one- player games and two- player games, and between two- player games and multi- player games. Card games for one player are known as solitaire or patience card games. See list of solitaire card games.) Generally speaking, they are in many ways special and atypical, although some of them have given rise to two- or multi- player games such as Spite and Malice. In card games for two players, usually not all cards are distributed to the players, as they would otherwise have perfect information about the game state. Two- player games have always been immensely popular and include some of the most significant card games such as piquet, bezique, sixty- six, klaberjass, gin rummy and cribbage.

Many multi- player games started as two- player games that were adapted to a greater number of players. For such adaptations a number of non- obvious choices must be made beginning with the choice of a game orientation. One way of extending a two- player game to more players is by building two teams of equal size.

Boxing My Model A Frame. I know.. I said I would not box my frame.  But I've come to the conclusion I can't make my track- T's frame stiff enough with just a few cross braces alone.  In retrospect I could have found a better condition frame from the start. But with my budget, I doubt it.  And maybe had I not been so bull- headed, I could have boxed this frame at the beginning and now be further along. Watch The Least Of These Online (2017).

When I built my first Model A, it's frame was in such good condition it hardly flexed at all, and it jaded me for life.  Today I know it was is a rarity to have a original, tight frame.  And that many of Henry Ford's well- used frames now are loose & flimsy require boxing (when hot rodding) because of worn out rivets & rusty rails, etc. Of course, re- riveting is still done today - -but we'll leave that to restorers only. Now that I have my heart set on boxing it, I considered making my own plates.  But a quick search online found that a kit is probably a good time saver over buying raw plate and custom making what was already readily available. Ebay had the best deal for me, and this seller even had a 0. Just the thing for the "racer" concerned about his weight.

The kit came quickly and as most kits go, it was made for an entirely stock frame, and meant to be welded to the outside edges of the frame.  It goes without saying, I had to modify it my way.  And if I really have to box it, I'm determined to have the frame boxed on the inside.  Why?  Personally - -it looks better and it isn't as obvious.  But to do that required a lot of extra work; measuring, grinding, fitting, grinding, and fitting again. Special Note: Whenever you consider boxing a frame, there has to be much pre- planning.  If your steering box in mounted in the rail like stock, you'll have to plan for that. All your body mounts have to be determined in advance as well.  The body bolts have to go all the way through the frame to the underside, or a cage- nut or bolt has welded on top or inside the rail.

Here I've welded in flanged nuts, I saw this in Street Rodder magazine recently.  I opened up the hole with a step- drill. Now the flange provides some girth to the nut with which to weld on to.

Next, I thought it would be classy to have the brake lines hidden within the frame rails.  Speedway Motors and other catalogs sell brake line bulkhead fittings for boxed frames.  But I'm staying away from many modern hot rodding conveniences.  Plus putting the line in the rail gives a cleaner appearance. Furthermore, it seems bulkhead fitting only come in AN, or 3. All OEM parts are all 4. So in the few days it took for the boxing plates to arrive I stopped by Pep Boys on Hollywood and bought 2.

I own all the tools I need to hand make brake lines from previous builds.  I now like to use the roll of brake line, it is less restricting then the pre- flared lengths. If you've ever flared brake lines at home you'll be familiar with fluid leaking at the new flare.  It's rare to get the perfect 4. I learned an extra step that helps stop leaks before the first installation, I call it 'pre- seating'. After you have completed the flare (and remembered to put on a nut before you flared the tube), you can pre- seat the flare before final installation.  Once in the car, space may be limited for optimum nut torquing. Place the female 'receiver' in a vise, in this case, the steel end of a rubber line as seen above coming out the frame.  Screw in your newly flared brake line with a flare nut wrench or box- end and tighten it into the end into the receiver very tightly.  Then loosen and tighten again, perhaps ten times. You may actually be able to feel the flare being 'seated' under the force of your wrench.  Take the line off, and look at the flare. You'll see it's now shaped more like the flare in the inside of the receiver.  Now you are less likely to have a leak at your first brake bleeding.

As great as the lightning holes will look in the end, they will still be see- through.  This brought up another detail to be considered - -having the inside of the rails look good. I loosened the rust with wire brushes and gave it an initial rattle- can job.  But by the end of all the plate fitting and additional edge sanding, I now had to repaint it.  I masked the edges this time, and with another layer of paint, I had a nice smooth surface inside. I also painted the back sides of the boxing plates. Now that I've trimmed & fitted the plates, plumbed the front brake lines, sanded the edges for welding, and painted the inside of the rails, the easy part is actually welding.

After a little discussion with my friend Ed, I decided to simply stitch weld rather then fully weld in the plates.  Had I installed the plates as the maker intended (on the outside edge), I might have fully welded it for looks, and sanded the welds a little.  But as I put them on the inside, I saw no reason not to stitch it. Before I tacked my first weld, I made sure my frame was sitting squarely on the sawhorses.  Once the plates are in, it's permanent.

I started the welding by first properly positioning each plate about 3/1. I go.  Vise- grip pliers help here keeping the plate spaced. I wanted an even pattern in the stitching.  And it wasn't until I first started welding the bottom edge did I think to weld from the center of one hole to the middle of a blank area on the plates.  I pretty much stuck with that theme throughout the welding.  The result was what looked like intentional spacing - -not bad if I do say so myself. At the top of the frame, I stitch welded the opposite.. Just over an hour of welding and fiddling I was about done. I went ahead and welded in some additional metal bar and a plate to the center crossmember as I planned on doing earlier.  The plate will protect the driver from a broken U- joint (you'll see why some time later).

All- in- all I think I did a swell job.  Although now that the weight of the frame is significantly higher, I believe the custom look will make up for it (because it's not really a real race car, shh.). Finally, I performed the "flex- test".  I stuck a coin under the horn of the frame, the frame is so stiff that the other side rose the about the same amount.  A week earlier the frame was so flimsy it would have failed with a quarter dollar and visibly flexed with ease.  Now I can't twist it at all!